If you coat over these without first using a concrete grinder you will get partial adhesion in small areas, but the majority of the floor will suffer from peeling. The good news is that you only have to remove it from just below the surface to achieve good adhesion and once the paint has dried it will stop the oil from returning to the surface unless the oil is very wet all the way through. So you can see how the seemingly simple remedy of painting your bricks to change its color can have far reaching implications and consequences. Bricks will need to be re-painted more frequently than the rest of your home as well because of the risk of water entry which can cause severe damage. Unfortunately at this point it is hard for you to recognize or see the effects of the water entry, as it is hidden behind the paint. Now I know that some of you will say that you can get strippers and restoration cleaners to remove the paint if you really need to and that is true. Remember though, you are entering a very expensive restoration process that is usually limited to very high end or very valuable masonry buildings with large amounts of funding.
Practically speaking, restoration cleaning cost would simply be out of the range for all but the most affluent homeowner. In a perfect world this doesn’t sound like a bad idea because it effectively keeps the water out as well. When the areas have thoroughly dried drip some clean water on them to see how porous the concrete is and how readily the water is absorbed because this is the best indication of how easily the paint will be absorbed. There are two main concerns with preparation of worn concrete – one is sheltered sections that still have a tight surface and the second is oil that has soaked into the concrete. After completing your test areas in different parts of the concrete if you find there are areas where the polish is still on the concrete where the water test does not absorb into the surface it will need to be opened with either shot blasting, acid etching or a concrete grinder.
However if you are considering painting the ‘bricks’ on your home then there are a few things you should consider before you break out the spray guns and throw a party! Permanence – The most important word to remember about painting brick is: permanence. Now you not only have your ongoing paint maintenance to deal with but deteriorated brick repairs must be done as well. You will spend far more in the long run painting your brick over and over again then you would ever have spent in up-grading to brick work on your home in the first place. So a quick fix, like painting bricks you don’t particularly like, can often be an expensive mistake. Use a brush to direct the ash into the can and ensure that you get as much ash out of the fire box as possible. A chimney cap will help keep leaves out of the chimney and arrest sparks.
Clean out the chimney with a flue brush or hire a professional chimney sweep at the start of the summer. Preparation consists of opening the surface of the concrete and cleaning it of any contaminants leaving it porous and clean which can be achieved in a few different ways depending on the state of the concrete that needs to be painted. As a comparison, polished concrete which has no sealer or paint requires up to fifteen preparation steps to achieve the final finish, but often concrete can be prepared simply in one or two steps before painting. Large portions of the wall area will have ‘brick face de-lamination’ and many more areas you can’t see will have de-lamination but will be held together by the paint. When you coat them with paint you have effectively closed the pores of the bricks preventing them from breathing. On-Going Maintenance – The day you apply the last coat of paint to the bricks on your home, is the first day paint degradation begins.